Why carburetor leaks

A good rebuild with the float level set no more than spec, and maybe a little lower, will ultimately be required. We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be? Ayn Rand: "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it. Be sure to check and see that the throttle shaft bore isn't worn!

Problem is likely too high float level or gaskets. Originally posted by autoradiotech View Post. I would have never guessed that the ethanol in todays gas could boil out and cause the pressure, but it makes complete sense.

Thank you for the insight on this topic guys! So I am thinking I might just spend a few bucks more and get a rebuilt one that I can just bolt on. There website seems to tell a good story. I may try them. It would cost me near that much to do it myself, and I they have a much more thorough process than I could come up with.

We first wash our carburetors using high pressure cleaning jets to remove large deposits of dirt and grime.

Then it is chemically soaked using three different process to break down years of baked on tarnish, dirt and carbon deposits. They are then hot tank cooked in two different steps, chemically washed in one step, chemically brightened in one step, acid washed in two steps, shot cleaned in one step then chemically prepped for the final finish in one step. Buy only carburetors that use these types of cleaning processes.

I am not opposed to buying another maker carb that bolts on. Any proven carbs that you guys have used or know of that work and offer any benefits over the stock Carter? If I can buy a replacement carb and still retain my original carb for a future rebuild, that would be ok by me.

Last edited by Iroll ; , PM. A "Daytona" universal 1 Brl. There are little holes in the carb just for that purpose. Refer to the model and year of the car when selecting the kit.

Some carburetors have a metal tag with the carburetor model number. These numbers help to obtain a kit with the correct gaskets and components. Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Use an open-end wrench to remove the fuel line fitting from the carburetor body. Pull the end of line out of the carburetor. Disconnect the throttle linkage by loosening the keeper screw on the linkage with a screwdriver. Remove any other linkage or choke wires from the carburetor.

Use a socket and ratchet to remove the nuts on the intake manifold studs at the base of the carburetor. Lift the carburetor off the manifold and take it to a workbench. Use a screwdriver to remove the bowl at the underside of the carburetor body. Remove the bowl and empty any residual gasoline into a container. Lift the float out of the bowl and set it aside.

Remove the bowl gasket and discard it. Remove the idle jet and main jet from the inside of the carburetor body with a screwdriver and discard them. Is the bike on the center stand or side stand when 1 leaks? It's on the center stand. I might just need to get new float needle valves.

Don't buy new ones. Get some Brasso and use a q tip dipped in brasso to polish the seat. In the 40 years of working on bikes I have never had to buy new carb valves and seats.

Besides the aftermarket replacements are still not as good as the OEM ones currently in the carbs. Last edit: by baldy Baldy is right. The replacements are not as good as the originals. Polish them and reuse them. As long as the spring end on the seat is working properly, they will polish up fine. I don't have brasso.. Also make sure the petcock is shutting off like it should.

Measuring the float height with the carbs inverted will get you in the ballpark. Wet check dials it in. A little extra fuel line and you do not need a seperate fuel container. I unhook it at the filter, and then reconnect it all easily when I'm done. Attachment not found. Carb Overflow Leak 14 Aug